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How Long Can You Use a Red License Plate? Latest Update 2025

One of the most common questions new car owners ask is: “How long can I use a red license plate?”According to Thailand’s updated law in 2025, vehicles with temporary red plates can be used for no more than 30 days from the date of purchase or up to 3,000 kilometers as recorded in the logbook. During this 30-day period, the car owner or dealership (dealer) must register the car with the Department of Land Transport (DLT) to receive a permanent white license plate. Using a red plate beyond this period is a legal offense. Important Restrictions Every Red Plate User Must Know Using a red plate does not grant the same freedom as a white plate. There are three important restrictions that must be strictly followed: No Night Driving: Red plate vehicles are not permitted on the road between sunset and sunrise (generally after 6:00 PM and before 6:00 AM), unless written permission is obtained from an official. No Inter-Provincial Driving (Without Permission): The vehicle cannot be driven outside the province specified in the logbook. If travel across provinces is necessary, permission must be granted by the registrar and recorded in the logbook. Usage Must Always Be Recorded: The driver must always keep the “Temporary License Plate Logbook” in the vehicle and must consistently record usage details, such as the driver’s name, date, and route. The Process of Changing from a “Red Plate” to a “White Plate” Typically, the registration process is handled by the dealership where you purchased the car. As the owner, your responsibility is to provide the following essential documents: Copy of your ID card Copy of your House Registration (Tabien Baan) Power of Attorney (if the dealer is acting on your behalf) Recommendation: You should regularly follow up with your sales representative or the dealership on the registration status to ensure the process is completed and you receive your white plate within the 30-day timeframe. Penalties and Fines for Improper Red Plate Use Violating the regulations for red plate use will result in legal penalties: Using a red plate for more than 30 days: Fine of up to 10,000 Baht. Driving a red plate car to another province without permission: Fine of up to 10,000 Baht. Driving a red plate car at night without permission: Fine of up to 10,000 Baht. Adhering to the regulations for a red license plate and ensuring the registration for a white plate is completed promptly are essential duties for a new car owner. This allows you to use your new vehicle with peace of mind and in full compliance with the law. Reference:Thank you for the reference:https://www.dlt.go.th/th

When to Change Brake Fluid?

One of the most critical yet frequently neglected maintenance tasks for any vehicle is changing the brake fluid. Many car owners might ask, “When should I change my brake fluid?” The international standard is every 2 years or 40,000 kilometers (approx. 25,000 miles), whichever comes first. This is not just a recommendation but a crucial requirement that directly impacts driving safety. So, what happens if we fail to change the brake fluid on schedule? The Core Issue: Why Does Brake Fluid “Go Bad”? The primary reason brake fluid has a limited service life is due to its inherent property known as being “hygroscopic.” Glycol-based brake fluids (like DOT 3, 4, and 5.1) are designed to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. This moisture can slowly seep into the brake system through microscopic pores in brake hoses and past seals over time. As the brake fluid becomes contaminated with water, its performance degrades, which is the starting point for serious problems. Understanding “Dry” vs. “Wet” Boiling Points Because brake fluid absorbs moisture, its boiling point decreases. International standards, therefore, define two different boiling points: Dry Boiling Point: This is the boiling point of new, fresh brake fluid with zero moisture contamination, which is very high. Wet Boiling Point: This is the boiling point of fluid that has absorbed moisture after being in service. If this temperature is too low, it creates a risk of vapor bubbles forming in the brake system. Vapor Lock: The Life-Threatening “Brake Fade” Symptom The “brake fade” or “brake failure” symptom known as Vapor Lock occurs during heavy or continuous braking (e.g., driving down a long hill). The intense heat generated is transferred through the brake pads and pistons to the brake fluid. If the fluid is old and contaminated with water, it will boil at a much lower temperature (water boils at 100°C / 212°F), creating steam bubbles (vapor) in the brake lines. Since vapor can be compressed (unlike liquid), when you press the brake pedal, the hydraulic force is wasted on compressing these bubbles instead of pushing the brake pistons. The result is that the brake pedal sinks to the floor with no braking force, which is extremely dangerous. Internal System Corrosion Recommendation: Changing brake fluid on schedule also helps prevent pitting on the caliper pistons. The water contaminated in old brake fluid not only lowers the boiling point but is also the primary cause of rust and corrosion on the internal metal components of the brake system, especially the complex ABS pump module. This corrosion can lead to “pitting” or leaks past seals, resulting in expensive repair bills in the future.

Car “Swaying”: A Warning Sign of Failing Suspension You Shouldn’t Ignore

Have you ever felt your car sway, lose grip, or wobble when changing lanes quickly, taking a corner, or driving over uneven roads? This “swaying” sensation is not just about reduced driving comfort; it’s a clear warning sign that your car’s suspension system is having problems and could lead to unexpected dangers. What Causes Car Swaying? 4 Key Suspension Parts to Check Swaying symptoms are often caused by the deterioration of crucial components in the suspension system, which are responsible for absorbing impacts and maintaining the stability of the vehicle. The points that should be checked first are: 1. Worn-Out Shock Absorbers Shock absorbers dampen the movement of the springs, keeping the car stable and hugging the road. But when shock absorbers wear out or “die,” they can no longer control the spring’s rebound. Symptoms: The car bounces up and down multiple times after going over a speed bump, oil leaks from the shock absorber body, the front of the car dips more than usual during hard braking. 2. Loose or Broken Sway Bar & Bushings This component directly prevents the car from “swaying” when cornering by distributing pressure to the opposite wheel to maintain balance. Symptoms: The car leans excessively when turning or cornering, there are rattling noises from under the car near the wheels. 3. Loose or Damaged Ball Joints Ball joints act as “connectors” in the suspension system, such as control arm ball joints and tie rod ends. When they become loose, it makes precise steering difficult. Symptoms: Loose steering wheel with slow response, clunking noises when turning the steering wheel or driving on rough roads, uneven tire wear. 4. Fatigued or Sagging Springs Springs directly support the weight of the vehicle. If they become fatigued or sag, it changes the car’s height and affects its center of gravity. Symptoms: One side of the car appears noticeably lower than the other, there are noises when driving over bridge joints. Dangers of Ignoring Car Swaying Symptoms Ignoring this problem can lead to severe consequences: Loss of Control: In an emergency situation requiring sudden evasive action, the car may easily lose stability and spin. Increased Braking Distance: Due to the wheels not making full contact with the road, braking performance is reduced. Premature Tire Wear: An imperfect suspension causes tires to wear unevenly or in a “cupped” pattern, leading to increased costs. Risk of Accidents: Components like ball joints could detach or break, potentially leading to a complete loss of vehicle control. The “swaying” symptom is not a minor issue; it’s a warning sign from your suspension system indicating it’s time for maintenance. Do not let a small problem turn into a serious accident.

How to Change Wiper Blades Yourself: Easy Like a Pro!

Changing your wiper blades will no longer be a difficult and complicated task! ACDelco offers high-quality Beam Blade with Spoiler wipers that come with 7 types of adapters in a single set, covering a wide range of cars on the market and allowing you to easily change them yourself at home. 1.Adapter รูปตัว U (U-Type / Hook Arm) Best for: Standard hook arms, the most common type. Popular with: Most Japanese and Korean vehicles – Toyota, Honda, Isuzu, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia. 2.Adapter รูปตัว P&H (Pin & Hook Arm) Best for: Side pin arms. Popular with: Many European and American vehicles – Volkswagen, BMW (some models), Mercedes-Benz (some models), Ford Ranger (some models), Chevrolet Captiva. 3.Adapter รูปตัว PTB (Push Tab Button) Best for: Push button arms. Popular with: Newer European vehicles – Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi. 4.Adapter แบบ NTPB (Narrow Top Push Button) Best for: Narrow push button arms (smaller than standard). Popular with: Newer models – Honda Civic/Accord, Toyota Camry, Lexus. 5.Adapter แบบ NPTB2 (Narrow Push Tab 2nd Gen) Best for: Second-generation push button arms with unique designs. Popular with: Premium European & Japanese vehicles – Audi, Volvo, Lexus, BMW, Mercedes-Benz. 6.Adapter แบบ DE (Double End / Side Lock) Best for: Double-end or pinch tab arms. Popular with: Certain European models – Volkswagen Passat, Audi A4/A6, Skoda. 7.Adapter แบบ I&L (Insert & Lock) Best for: Bayonet arms. Popular with: European and Japanese vehicles – BMW Series, Mercedes-Benz, Subaru, Mazda (some models). 📌 Basic Installation Steps Remove the old adapterPress or pull the lock mechanism to release the old wiper blade (depending on adapter type). Insert the new adapterSelect the correct ACDelco adapter for your vehicle and attach it securely to the new wiper blade. Slide and lockPush the blade into the arm until you hear a “Click,” indicating it is locked in place. Check for securityGently move the blade to ensure it’s firmly attached and ready to use. ✅ Easy installation, hassle-free, and ready in just a few steps!With ACDelco Beam Blade with Spoiler, you’ll enjoy clear visibility and enhanced safety in every driving condition. #ACDelcoWiperBlades #WiperBladeAdapter #DIYWiperReplacement

Does Rust on Brake Discs Affect Performance?

Orange rust stains on brake discs after exposure to moisture are a common occurrence. However, rust can be harmless or dangerous, and it’s important to know the two main types so you can identify which is safe and which is a warning sign that your car needs inspection. 1. Surface RustIf the rust is only light on the surface of the brake disc, it generally does not affect performance. When you drive and apply the brakes for the first few times, the rust will be scrubbed off by the friction from the brake pads, restoring the disc’s smooth surface. This type of rust is normal and not a cause for concern. 2. Deep or Pitted RustIf the rust is thick or deep and penetrates into the metal of the brake disc, it can cause problems such as brake noise, reduced braking performance, uneven brake pad wear, and brake pedal pulsation. This type of rust is often caused by leaving the vehicle parked for long periods and is a safety issue that should be addressed immediately. Prevention Tips: Use the brakes regularly to help keep the disc surface clean. Park in a dry, covered area to reduce direct exposure to rain and moisture. Avoid spraying oil or lubricants on the brake disc, as this can make the surface slippery and reduce braking efficiency. Solutions: Brake Disc Resurfacing – Removing the rough, rusted surface layer to restore smoothness, if the rust is not too deep and the disc still meets minimum thickness standards. Replacing the Brake Discs – The safest option if the rust is deep or the discs are worn below the manufacturer’s minimum thickness. Discs should be replaced in pairs (left and right) to maintain balanced braking. Rust on brake discs is not always dangerous. If it’s only light surface rust that appears temporarily, there’s no need to worry. However, if it’s deep rust that affects braking performance, consult a qualified mechanic immediately—because the braking system is essential to your driving safety.

เรื่องอะไหล่…ทำไมต้องเป็น GP Autoparts?

44 ปี ของความเชี่ยวชาญ (2524 – ปัจจุบัน) จากร้านอะไหล่หนึ่งคูหาที่เริ่มต้นในปี 2524 ในนาม “ห้างหุ้นส่วนจำกัด จี.พี.อะไหล่” ที่มุ่งจำหน่ายเฉพาะอะไหล่แท้เพื่อสร้างความมั่นใจให้แก่ลูกค้า จนกลายมาเป็น บริษัท จีพี โมบิลิตี้ จำกัด (มหาชน) ผู้นำด้านการจัดจำหน่ายอะไหล่รถยนต์อย่างครบวงจรในปัจจุบัน เราได้รับความไว้วางใจจากคู่ค้าในกลุ่ม B2B ครอบคลุมทั้งร้านอะไหล่, อู่ซ่อม, ศูนย์บริการรถยนต์ และองค์กรกว่า 4,000 รายทั่วประเทศ ด้วยการขับเคลื่อนด้วยความเป็นเลิศในการปฏิบัติงานผ่านมาตรฐานการบริหารงานคุณภาพระดับสากล และยึดมั่นในวัฒนธรรมองค์กรที่แข็งแรง “เพราะเราไม่ได้ส่งแค่ชิ้นส่วนอะไหล่ แต่ส่งมอบความมั่นใจในทุกกล่อง ทุกคำตอบ และทุกการสนทนา” และเพื่อสื่อถึงคุณภาพที่เรายึดมั่นมาตั้งแต่วันแรก เราใช้ชื่อ “GP Autoparts” เป็นเครื่องหมายการค้าอย่างเป็นทางการสำหรับผลิตภัณฑ์และบริการในกลุ่มอะไหล่รถยนต์ ชื่อที่ลูกค้าคุ้นเคยและไว้วางใจมาอย่างยาวนาน ซึ่งยังคงเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของคุณภาพและความเชื่อมั่นมาจนถึงวันนี้ เราคัดสรรอะไหล่คุณภาพจากกว่า 30 แบรนด์ชั้นนำ ทั้งอะไหล่แท้สำหรับรถยนต์รุ่นยอดนิยมและอะไหล่ทดแทนคุณภาพสูง ครอบคลุมทุกระบบของรถยนต์ เครื่องยนต์และระบบส่งกำลัง ช่วงล่างและระบบเบรก ระบบไฟฟ้า-ปรับอากาศ ชิ้นส่วนตัวถัง เคมีภัณฑ์ ด้วยสต๊อกสินค้าพร้อมส่งกว่า 30,000 รายการ เราพัฒนากลยุทธ์ ‘Human Touch Plus AI’ ที่ผสานความเชื่อใจและความเข้าใจลูกค้าอย่างลึกซึ้งเข้ากับเทคโนโลยีอัจฉริยะ เพื่อยกระดับประสบการณ์การซื้อขาย นวัตกรรมที่โดดเด่นคือ GO Plus ระบบ Customer Portal ที่ช่วยลูกค้าเข้าถึงฐานข้อมูลอะไหล่ที่ครอบคลุมกว่า 200,000 รายการได้อย่างแม่นยำ พร้อมระบบตรวจสอบสต๊อก สถานะสินค้า และสิทธิประโยชน์ต่างๆ รวมถึงระบบ Chatbot และ AI Assistant ที่ช่วยตอบคำถามตลอด 24 ชั่วโมงทุกวัน ศูนย์กระจายอะไหล่ชั้นนำแบบครบวงจรของ GP Mobility ถูกออกแบบมาเพื่อตอบสนองความต้องการของลูกค้าทั่วประเทศ ภายใต้ระบบโลจิสติกส์อันทันสมัยที่สามารถจัดส่งถึงมือลูกค้าทั่วประเทศภายใน 24 ชั่วโมงระบบการจัดการคลังสินค้าที่ทันสมัยช่วยให้เราสามารถจัดการสต๊อกสินค้ากว่า 30,000 รายการได้อย่างมีประสิทธิภาพ พร้อมระบบควบคุมคุณภาพที่เข้มงวดเพื่อรักษาสภาพอะไหล่ให้อยู่ในสภาพที่สมบูรณ์

How ABS Affects Braking Distance and Safety on Slippery Roads

During seasons when road conditions become more hazardous due to rain or slippery surfaces, the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) plays a crucial role in maintaining safety. But how exactly does it work, and does it really affect braking distance? How ABS Works When you slam on the brakes, wheel sensors detect if any wheel is about to stop spinning (lock up). The ABS system then automatically modulates the brake pressure, rapidly “grabbing and releasing” the brake pads up to 16–50 times per second. This high-speed pulsing prevents wheel lock and allows the tires to maintain traction. Drivers often feel a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal—this is a normal sign that the ABS is working properly. Impact on Braking Distance and Safety On dry or normal roads: ABS may shorten braking distance or make it comparable to standard braking systems, especially during hard braking. The key advantage is better control and stability. On wet or slippery roads: ABS performs at its best, helping maximize traction and prevent skidding or hydroplaning. As a result, braking distance is generally shorter or comparable to non-ABS systems, with the added benefit of steering control. On loose surfaces (gravel/sand/dirt): ABS may increase braking distance slightly compared to non-ABS systems because the wheels don’t lock and dig into the surface to help stop the car. However, ABS allows the driver to maintain steering control, which is vital for avoiding obstacles. ABS is a safety feature designed to prevent wheel lock during hard braking, helping drivers maintain directional control—especially on slippery roads. Still, it’s important to regularly check your brake pads, discs, and brake fluid, and follow maintenance schedules to ensure your braking system performs at its best under all road conditions.

ICE, HEV, and BEV: Comparing 3 Types of Cars – Which One is Right for You?

The Thai automotive market is evolving rapidly! Between the familiar Internal Combustion Engine (ICE), the fuel-efficient Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV), and the futuristic Battery Electric Vehicle (BEV), which one should you choose? This article will take you through a clear comparison of all three types. ICE: Internal Combustion Engine The traditional vehicle type powered solely by an internal combustion engine. Its basic principle is converting chemical energy stored in fuel (such as gasoline or diesel) into mechanical energy. Fuel and air are mixed and ignited inside the combustion chamber, creating high-pressure explosions that push the pistons. This motion is then transferred to the crankshaft, generating rotational energy to drive the wheels. Advantages: A well-known technology that has been refined for decades. Complete infrastructure support, with fuel stations and maintenance centers widely available. Considerations: Requires regular maintenance such as oil changes. Energy loss occurs through heat and friction, reducing efficiency. HEV: Hybrid Electric Vehicle Commonly known as “hybrids,” HEVs combine internal combustion engines with electric motors. Both systems work together to improve fuel efficiency. There are two main types: Full Hybrids, which can run short distances on electric power alone, and Mild Hybrids (MHEV), where the electric motor primarily assists the combustion engine. Advantages: Significantly more fuel-efficient than ICE cars, especially in city driving where the car can switch to electric mode. Electric motor support reduces engine lag and improves responsiveness. Considerations: More complex systems, as both the engine and electric components need maintenance. Still reliant on combustion engines, meaning some emissions remain, though lower than ICE.     BEV: Battery Electric Vehicle Fully electric vehicles powered entirely by electricity, with no internal combustion engine at all. This makes them “zero tailpipe emission” vehicles. Energy stored in large battery packs is converted through an inverter to power the electric motor, which directly drives the wheels. Advantages: Instant torque from electric motors delivers quick acceleration and responsiveness. 100% electric drive means zero exhaust emissions, helping reduce environmental impact. Considerations: Charging takes significantly longer than refueling, requiring careful trip planning. Battery replacement can be costly once it degrades beyond warranty coverage. Which One Should You Choose? There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The best choice depends on your lifestyle, budget, and convenience needs: ICE if you want familiarity, easy servicing, and quick refueling. HEV if you prioritize fuel savings but still want flexibility. BEV if you’re eco-conscious and ready to embrace the future of mobility. Ultimately, buying a car means weighing clear pros and cons—and the right car for you depends on what you value most.  

Choosing the Right Gear at Red Lights: Drive, Neutral, or Park?

Selecting the right gear while waiting at red lights is essential, especially in heavy city traffic. Frequent stops, long idle times, or slow movements can affect your transmission if handled incorrectly. Here are some practical tips to help preserve your transmission and extend your vehicle’s lifespan. When stopping briefly (less than 1 minute) Gear D (Drive):Use Drive if you’re stopping for a short time, such as waiting at a red light or during slow-moving traffic. Simply keep your foot on the brake without shifting gears frequently. This helps reduce unnecessary wear and tear on the transmission. When stopping for longer (more than 1 minute) Gear N (Neutral):Switch to Neutral and pull the handbrake to prevent the car from rolling. This reduces the heat buildup in the transmission and can help save fuel during long stops. Avoid using Gear P (Park) while idling Do not use Park while the engine is running and the car is stopped at traffic lights. Park locks the transmission, and if engaged while the car is still moving, it may cause serious damage.Use Park only when the engine is turned off or when parking on a slope to prevent rolling. For manual transmission cars Always shift to Neutral (N) and pull the handbrake when stopped. Avoid holding the clutch pedal down, as it will wear out the release bearing faster. 👉 Choosing the correct gear at red lights not only protects your transmission but also improves safety and fuel efficiency, especially in cities with frequent traffic congestion.